Winemaker Richard Longoria of Longoria Wines
Yes, the 2004 film Sideways put the Santa Ynez Valley on the map. Yes, the Santa Ynez Valley is home to more than 70 wineries and tasting rooms, with opportunities to sample Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. And sure, you can stop in at the Hitching Post in Buellton for a Sideways look-see and a mouthwatering steak grilled over an indoor barbecue pit.
But the best thing about the Santa Ynez Valley is its off-screen charms. Twenty-five miles northeast of Santa Barbara, the valley is a pastoral paradise, where ribbon roads—the Santa Ynez Valley is a cyclist’s dream—roll past wineries, horse farms, cattle ranches, and oak groves. The roads wind through cozy villages like Ballard, Los Alamos, and Los Olivos, where art galleries and shopping rest alongside saloons where locals still tie up their horses. Despite Hollywood’s focus, these small towns still have their secrets: the tiny Wildling Art Museum and its testament to the American wilderness, PCPA Theaterfest performing live plays under the stars, and theother Hitching Post in Casmalia. And the wines are no longer a secret.
Make no mistake, this is also the valley of mouthwatering eats, where open-pit grills send barbecue smoke—Santa Maria style—curling into the sky. Friends sit at picnic tables, enjoying steak, ribs, and tri-tip cooked over red oak coals, accompanied by heaping bowls of garden salad, garlic bread, and slow-cooked pinquito beans. Sweet tooth? Shut your eyes on any street corner in Solvang, the self-proclaimed “Danish Capital of America,” and your nose will lead you to a Danish bakery or a chocolate shop, tidy shelves brimming with fresh breads, almond custard kringles, and homemade chocolates.
But first and foremost, the Santa Ynez Valley was born to grow grapes: Two mountain ranges funnel cooling coastal fog into the valley, and several microclimates create perfect conditions for a number of varietals, though in Santa Ynez it’s the Rhône-style grapes—Viognier, Mourvèdre, and Syrah—that thrive. Romantics (and calorie counters) will want to rent a tandem bike and pedal their way along the country roads to wineries like Rideau Vineyard, Sunstone Vineyards and Winery, and Buttonwood Farm.
It’s a lot to remember (which is why we’re helping), but if you retain only one thing, it should be this: The Santa Ynez Valley is mostly about peace and quiet. Favorite moments might well be those that unfold away from everything—with a well-placed picnic basket in an oak grove, the wind through the leaves throwing sun-dappled shadows on the places Hollywood didn’t find.
Mix wine and oriental art. There are over 70 wineries to choose from, but Buttonwood Farm Winery, named after the local buttonwood tree, is a fine start-a small winery with a nice varietal mix, ranging from Marsanne to Merlot. It's a fun-loving place, where you might run into interesting folks like artist-in-residence Seyburn Zorthian, and learn something of Shoudo, the Japanese brushstroke art on the winery's labels. Tip: The farm is somewhat famous for the annual Louisiana-style Crawfish Boil held, generally, in May. It's well worth calling or checking the website for updates. www.buttonwoodwinery.com 805/688-3032
1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 93463
Spin through the Valley on a bicycle built for two. Solvang's Wheel Fun Rentals rents tandems, and if there's a more romantic way to see the countryside, let us know. A leisurely half-day ride-10 miles round-trip with plenty of wine tasting stops along the way-starts at Wheel Fun and heads east on Hwy. 246, then north on Alamo Pintado Road to the town of Los Olivos. Tip: Don't miss the specialty sandwiches at Panino (805/688-9304) in Los Olivos.
www.wheelfunrentals.com 805/688-0091
475 First St., Solvang 93463
Sample Merlot within a stone farmhouse. Sunstone Vineyards and Winery is deservedly known for its Merlot but the tasting room, with a wood-burning stove and two barrel-aging caves, is good fun too. Tip: Ask to sample Eros (apparently it can be bottled), a unique blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
www.sunstonewinery.com 805/688-9463
125 N. Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez 93460
Make a stagecoach stop. Housed in a restored 1884 adobe house that was once the first stagecoach stop in Los Olivos, Rideau Vineyard is now home to wonderful Rhône varietals. Don't miss the Syrah. Tip: Born and raised in New Orleans, owner Iris Rideau knows Creole; Rideau's tasting events often include a chance at her okra gumbo and jambalaya.
www.rideauvineyard.com 805/688-0717
1562 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 93463
Man cannot live on wine alone. Founded by Adam Firestone and brother-in-law David Walker, the Firestone Walker Brewing Company is known for its award-winning regional brews. Visit the Taproom and you'll discover a fun pub with a range of eats that reflect a passion for using fresh ingredients from local sources.
www.firestonewalker.com 805/686-1557
620 E. McMurray Rd., Buellton 93427
Take a walk on the wild side. Dedicated to nature, the Wildling Art Museum in Los Olivos showcases it and preserves it. The museum hosts four exhibitions a year, and the artwork is both breathtaking and first rate: from plein air paintings of Glacier National Park to art depicting endangered species. Tip: Catch the Free Friday Flicks (first Friday of the month), films about nature and art, with free popcorn and cookies.
www.wildlingmuseum.org 805/688-1082
2329 Jonata St., Los Olivos 93441
Sample true blue barbecue. These days, tourists beat a path to the Hitching Post in Buellton, featured in Sideways. Avoid the crowds and enjoy the same mouthwatering barbecue at the Hitching Post in Casmalia. Within the weather-beaten walls of a real-deal western restaurant, the Ostini family serves up chicken, ribs, quail, and seafood, rendered matchless over an oakwood barbecue. Tip: Match your meal with a Hitching Post Highliner Pinot Noir.
www.hitchingpost1.com 805/937-6151
3325 Point Sal Rd., Casmalia 93429
See live theater under the stars. The Central Coast's nationally renowned professional theater company, PCPA, is staging every manner of play from Othello to Godspell. The company performs year-round in the Allan Hancock College Performing Arts Center, but June through October the outdoor performances at Solvang's 700-seat Festival Theatre are not to be missed. Tip: Since summer is the season, time your visit to coincide with the Santa Barbara County Fair in nearby Santa Maria.
www.pcpa.org 805/922-8313
800 S. College Dr., Santa Maria 93454
Sample Danish treats. Solvang is filled with Danish bakeries. Start at Olsen's Danish Village Bakery, which was originally established in Denmark in 1890. Four generations of this family have baked everything from blue-ribbon breads (try the cinnamon raisin with icing) to Winerbrod (Danish pastry) and Kranskage (almond cake). What better way to sustain yourself while browsing the shops in downtown Solvang? Inside tip: For treats full bore, visit during the annual Winterfest Celebration.
www.olsensdanishbakery.com 805/688-6314
1529 Mission Dr., Solvang 93463
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